Travel

So Mike, Croutons or Sunflower Seeds?

Recently, when on the topic of buffets (I have no idea) with a couple friends, we learned that a friend of theirs had recently seen Mike Shanahan at Souper Salad. This news was disturbing. I’ll even call it disappointing. Why is it that I cared? Why is it that I have such disdain for the [...]

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Triple-Hearted Monster

Writhing. It’s not a word that should be used lightly. It indicates pain and suffering. But that day I saw it.  I’m certain that the idea of “snorkeling”, in most beaches across the earth was started by some marketing genius to make tourists feel “active” after all the Coronas and lying around. So at least [...]

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Helga

Months ago, on our way to the “cotton castle”, in Pamukalle, Turkey, we were beckoned inside a home by a squat women, let’s call her Helga, with chapped hands and a ruthless expression of hospitality. It was something we’d seen before. Come, come, it said. Take off your shoes, it insisted. Have some tea, it [...]

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Afraid of the dark

Do you like the dark? I’m not really a fan. I prefer a light switch, even if I don’t need one. Africa doesn’t have a switch. Often, its only teeth enamel and eye-whites which light the way along the lane as they sell fish, walk home, feed a baby or haul their harvest. We’ve had [...]

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Status Report: Uganda

The Things We Carry: mosquito cream, malaria pills, sunblock, journal, head lamp, iodine-treated water bottle, Kleenex, The Food We Eat: beans, bread, eggs, tea, samosas, avocados, cabbage, rice, Pringles, The Stuff We Hate: being asked for money, overland trucks full of mzungu, horrendous bus rides, developED country prices with developING country service, The Stuff We [...]

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On why one should be very, very careful about taking a guided tour. .

We’re not the guided tour type. Museums are not our thing. Quite frankly, they are for people who prefer to be led and handheld as they walk through an unfamiliar neighborhood. Which is fine. For everyone else. But in Jerusalem, there was just too much relevant history to avoid the whole cross-bearing, guilt-smothered enchilada. I [...]

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I Cut My Hair Myself Today & I’m Actually Pleased

I’m not sure whether this is a sign of self-sufficiency or frighteningly decreasing standards.

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Screaming Eagles, Live Chickens and Polygamy

The ride to Rania was a roller coaster. Great America’s Screaming Eagle with its shockless, wooden construction comes to mind. Zana’s no-name car was the epitome of luxury—beige and gold, proof of purchase still stuck to the windows, digital dash, cruise control, compact-disc player and leather interior with head-rest to floor-mat dog-fur covers. Unfortunately, drivers [...]

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The Pashmerga Says No Pictures

The Pashmerga, the Kurdish police and security officers were everywhere. At intersections. At fountains. At soccer games. There were never any less than four guards at the gates of our compound, which includes ten-foot high walls. There were always two or three in front of the school, where our couchsurfing host taught English. During the [...]

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Erbil, Iraq

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